• First, test the brake pedal resistance.
• Next, push the brake pedal hard and hold it (the pressure should remain constant)
• Drive about 20 feet and stop quickly.
• Do the brakes work properly when braking on various speed?
  • Later when driving at about 40 mph in an open area with no traffic behind you, advise the seller if he is riding with you that you are going to stop quickly; then brake firmly in a controlled manner in order to decelerate as quickly as you can.  How did it feel?
  • Any skidding or jittering?  Often with ABS, you might feel the brake pedal automatically “pump” or pulse.
  • Does the car stop straight; or does it pull to one side?
• Check the handbrake. Is it strong enough to hold the vehicle on a hill?

Do you hear any unusual engine noises or experience strange vibrations when driving?

• With the windows down, drive the car along-side of a wall type structure or curb that can reflect the sounds of the car.  Do you hear anything that concerns you?
• Clanging or clunking sounds when starting and stopping the car could mean problems with exhaust, brakes, engine mountings, suspension, transmission or the drive shaft.
• Knocking or tapping sounds could be from a failing rod bearing, piston or piston pin.
• Whining or grinding sounds can mean worn bearings or gears which are expensive to repair.
• Squealing sounds when you use the brake may mean new brake pads or linings are needed. Scrubbings sounds are worse because it indicates that the “screeching” parts could be worn beyond repair.

• Do you experience any problems with the transmission?
  • Test the low speed/easy driving shifts.
  • Now try the rapid-acceleration shifting.
  • Keep in mind your desire to optimize economy, as well as have the power to get on the highway, take hills, or pass other vehicles as necessary.
  • Everything working smoothly?  Remember that some cars are designed to shift like butter, and others (such as older performance cars) are supposed to shift hard and jump forward.  Find out what your candidate car is supposed to do before you test drive).

• • Does the car accelerate smoothly from a dead stop?
  • The engine should pull up smoothly when you accelerate the gas, without any stalls or power losses. Releasing your foot off the accelerator should also power down smoothly.
  • If the engine is in poor condition and is old and worn it may take a while to get you up to speed and you may see a big puff of smoke coming out of the exhaust.
  • Drive the car up a hill, does it have any problems taking on a hill?
  • Driving the car up a hill is a good time to watch for blue smoke from burning oil coming out of the exhaust. When you go down the hill have your foot off the accelerator, at the moment you reach the bottom of the hill, push down on the accelerator again.
  • Does the parking brake work? Put on parking brake and test it against the engine.

• Make two sharp full circle turns, clock wise and counter clock wise, and find out if you hear any strange noises?
• Creaks and groans of the suspension
• Creaks in the dashboard and interior
• Road noise (tires, door seals, engine & exhaust)
• When you hear rhythmic clunks from the front of the vehicle when driving, this may indicate that the drive shaft joints are badly worn and need to be replaced.

Any odors?

The smell of burning oil can mean a worn-out engine.

Gasoline? If you can smell petrol fumes while you are driving, you may have a fuel leak.

Exhaust fumes? This can be very dangerous, as carbon monoxide leaks can poison you and your passengers, potentially causing occupants to become sick or pass out behind the wheel or have long term health implications.

Does the car start easily again after you switch it off?

Does the car overheat when idling?  How does the temperature gauge look?